The Treasures of Patan

To take a trip to one of the most beautiful structures of medieval India, get to Ahmedabad, and take a cab or the public transport to Patan, 137 km away in northern Gujarat. Two km further north west of this district is an outstanding example of Solanki architecture, the Rani-ki-Vav step well.

Rani-ka-Vav

Rated as one of the most intricately carved of the ancient 120 step wells built by the rulers of Gujarat, it also finds a place in the UNESCO World Heritage site list. It was built in the 11th century in memory of King Bhimdev I, the second ruler of the Solanki dynasty by his widow Queen Udaymati. The step well remained buried under the sands for 800 years till it was discovered by the Archaeological Society of India in the 1980s.It is believed that a larger treasure lies around the Rani-ki-Vav, assuming that the step well was used by the royal family living in the vicinity.

Step-wells are an indigenous water conservation system, and an efficient weather cooling structure used by the royal family to beat the summer heat. These large tanks were accessed by a lateral and direct flight of stairs, and a network of passageways and chambers. Being a favourite spot for cooling off and relaxing during summer, these wells were given their due by prolific and elaborate carvings on the stone panels and pillars around the water tank. Vishnu and his incarnations appear to be the favourite deities of the rulers, as revealed by the figures on the panels and pillars, though sculptures of Ganesha and the Sun God are also present.

The Rani-ki-Vav measures 65 m x 18 m and steps 28 m down seven storeys to reach the water level. From above, the step well looks like a stepped corridor divided by ornately carved colonnades. The exteriors of the step wells were deliberately left unattractive, for fear of the enemy poisoning the waters. The waters of Rani ki Vav were believed to be therapeutic – possibly the presence of ayurvedic plants around the well permeated the tank.

The Sahastralinga Talav, or the tank with a thousand Shiva shrines is another of Patan’s treasures, built by Jayasimha Siddharaja of the Chalukya dynasty who ruled between 1093 and 1143 AD. The 5 sq. km area of the tank was filled by the lost Saraswati river, which later dried to leave behind silt.

When the tank was excavated in 1936, it revealed a large mound in the centre called the ‘bakasthana’ on which a platform was raised, its subterranean channels, steps, a bridge and the side elevation. A channel about a kilometer long and 5 metres wide brought water from the Saraswati to the tank.

Anahilwada Patan was the centre of activity for the Solanki dynasty who ruled between the 8th and 12th century. After the Mughals annexed Patan, the city lost its importance to Ahmedabad who shifted the capital in 1411 AD. The Kumarapala Rasa, a Jain text carries a reference to Patan as a fort city, well planned, cultured and brimming with wealth. The Vaghelas lost to Ulugh Khan who brought the city to ruins.

Khan Sarovar is another remnant from the past in Patan, which was restored partially to its old glory by Mirza Aziz Kokah in 1589. The district’s other glories include 100 Jain temples, of which the Mahavir Swami Derasar is the most famous, and the Hindu temples of Kalika Mata, Sindhwai Mata, Harihareshwar Mahadev and Brahma Kund

Modhera

Another awe inspiring monument is the Sun temple at Modhera that is worth a visit if you have time to spare. Built by King Bhimdev I himself, the remarkable architecture ensures the sun streams right on the idol within the sanctum sanctorum on every equinox. Torana arches and pillars of victory (the Kirti Stambh) mark the entrance to the temple, and the interiors have exquisite carvings of deities and scenes from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana on the walls and pillars.

The architecture at the Surya Kund step well here is even more expressive. Shrines dedicated to Vishnu, Ganesha and Shiva and the Sabha Mandap of the main shine surround the Surya Kund.
At Musar tank in Viramgam near Modhera, more samples of 12th century Solanki architecture can be found.